The History of Barbering
The History of Barbering
Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
January 20th, 2022
January 20th, 2022
Barbering is one of the oldest professions in history, and there is more to its story than cutting hair alone. I became interested in this topic after reading an article published by the History Channel titled "Why are barber poles red, white and blue?". The article shares that "barber pole’s colors are a legacy of a long-gone era when people went to barbers not just for a haircut or shave but also for bloodletting and other medical procedures". On the pole, the red represented blood, the white bandages, and the blue veins.
According to the Encyclopedia of Medical History by Roderick E. McGrew, barbers who offered medical services were referred to as "barber-surgeons", and along with trimming hair they also "bled, cupped, leeched, gave enemas [and] pulled teeth". These procedures were recognized by physicians during the Middle Ages, but deemed too menial for doctors to perform. This led to monks, who often cared for the sick at monasteries, to start conducting surgical procedures. Barbers frequently worked at monasteries because Roman Catholic clergymen were required to remove their facial hair per a papal decree in 1092 (2). Monks would borrow the barbers' sharp instruments, which eventually led to barbers offering surgical services themselves (2).
As you can imagine, this raised many questions about who was qualified to provide medical procedures. Should only university trained professionals facilitate them? Was apprenticeship training enough? Should one person be allowed to cut hair, conduct dental work and perform surgery? The debate unfolded in different ways across Europe.
Southern France, Spain and Italy
In these regions, barber-surgeons saw their status constantly fluctuate from revered “knowledge healer” to “medical conman”. Their relevance to healthcare didn't receive much recognition because medicine and surgery were never treated as separate professions. In 1254, Bruno da Longobucco, an Italian physician who wrote on surgery, complained about barbers performing phlebotomies and scarifications (1). It was the first public sign of physicians' dissent towards other professions encroaching on the market for medical services.
Northern France
Demand for surgical services in this region became so high that it required an abundance of surgeons to meet it (1). Barber-surgeons were able to respond to the demand faster than university graduates because they had no formal certification process in place before entering the field. Many physicians felt the skill and training required to practice medicine was threatened by the number of barber-surgeons performing surgeries, so some medical facilities started banning operations to distinguish doctors from surgeons (1). Despite this, France legitimized the barber-surgeon field by establishing the College de St Cosme (Côme) in 1210, which taught both physicians and surgeons in Paris. However, on campus there was still an issue of class between the faculty teaching each subject. Professors who wore long-robes were physicians entitled to conduct surgeries, while those who wore short robes still needed to pass certain exams and apprenticeship hours to do so. In quiet rebellion, the short robed faculty members partnered with barber-surgeons outside of the college, and began teaching them anatomy lessons in exchange for their sworn allegiance to the short robed division of the school. In 1499, barber-surgeons sought more autonomy, mainly in the form of demonstrations via their own cadavers (1). A power struggle ensued, with the short robed division of the college withdrawing their support. The short robed faculty eventually acquiesced to the long robed faculty in 1660, essentially acknowledging physicians' superiority over the surgical profession at the time. Outside of universities, the number of barber-surgeons continued to rise, but the quality of their services deteriorated without access to proper schooling (1).
England
Similar to France, physicians in England initially disliked surgeries. A surgeons guild was created in 1368 that joined forces with physicians in 1421 (1). Despite this, the Guild of the Barbers of London received a charter from Edward the IV himself in 1462. This likely elevated the barber-surgeon's class and seniority enough to influence a future partnership between the Guild of Surgeons and the Company of Barbers in 1540, which together became the United Barber-Surgeon Company (1). This organization lasted for over two centuries, until 1745, when England also saw barbers and surgeons part ways as the need for university education in medicine gained social approval. At this time surgeons formed the Royal College of Surgeons, which is still operating today (8).
Check out the timeline below to see how the barber-surgeon profession evolved into the 18th century.
According to the Encyclopedia of Medical History by Roderick E. McGrew, barbers who offered medical services were referred to as "barber-surgeons", and along with trimming hair they also "bled, cupped, leeched, gave enemas [and] pulled teeth". These procedures were recognized by physicians during the Middle Ages, but deemed too menial for doctors to perform. This led to monks, who often cared for the sick at monasteries, to start conducting surgical procedures. Barbers frequently worked at monasteries because Roman Catholic clergymen were required to remove their facial hair per a papal decree in 1092 (2). Monks would borrow the barbers' sharp instruments, which eventually led to barbers offering surgical services themselves (2).
As you can imagine, this raised many questions about who was qualified to provide medical procedures. Should only university trained professionals facilitate them? Was apprenticeship training enough? Should one person be allowed to cut hair, conduct dental work and perform surgery? The debate unfolded in different ways across Europe.
Southern France, Spain and Italy
In these regions, barber-surgeons saw their status constantly fluctuate from revered “knowledge healer” to “medical conman”. Their relevance to healthcare didn't receive much recognition because medicine and surgery were never treated as separate professions. In 1254, Bruno da Longobucco, an Italian physician who wrote on surgery, complained about barbers performing phlebotomies and scarifications (1). It was the first public sign of physicians' dissent towards other professions encroaching on the market for medical services.
Northern France
Demand for surgical services in this region became so high that it required an abundance of surgeons to meet it (1). Barber-surgeons were able to respond to the demand faster than university graduates because they had no formal certification process in place before entering the field. Many physicians felt the skill and training required to practice medicine was threatened by the number of barber-surgeons performing surgeries, so some medical facilities started banning operations to distinguish doctors from surgeons (1). Despite this, France legitimized the barber-surgeon field by establishing the College de St Cosme (Côme) in 1210, which taught both physicians and surgeons in Paris. However, on campus there was still an issue of class between the faculty teaching each subject. Professors who wore long-robes were physicians entitled to conduct surgeries, while those who wore short robes still needed to pass certain exams and apprenticeship hours to do so. In quiet rebellion, the short robed faculty members partnered with barber-surgeons outside of the college, and began teaching them anatomy lessons in exchange for their sworn allegiance to the short robed division of the school. In 1499, barber-surgeons sought more autonomy, mainly in the form of demonstrations via their own cadavers (1). A power struggle ensued, with the short robed division of the college withdrawing their support. The short robed faculty eventually acquiesced to the long robed faculty in 1660, essentially acknowledging physicians' superiority over the surgical profession at the time. Outside of universities, the number of barber-surgeons continued to rise, but the quality of their services deteriorated without access to proper schooling (1).
England
Similar to France, physicians in England initially disliked surgeries. A surgeons guild was created in 1368 that joined forces with physicians in 1421 (1). Despite this, the Guild of the Barbers of London received a charter from Edward the IV himself in 1462. This likely elevated the barber-surgeon's class and seniority enough to influence a future partnership between the Guild of Surgeons and the Company of Barbers in 1540, which together became the United Barber-Surgeon Company (1). This organization lasted for over two centuries, until 1745, when England also saw barbers and surgeons part ways as the need for university education in medicine gained social approval. At this time surgeons formed the Royal College of Surgeons, which is still operating today (8).
Check out the timeline below to see how the barber-surgeon profession evolved into the 18th century.
Timeline of the Barber-surgeon Profession
A diagram of this timeline is available here.
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Europe - The first barber-surgeons are recognized. They work in monasteries selling a variety of medical services (1). 1000 |
|
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Northern France - The College de St Cosme (Côme) opens in Paris. This is where a conflict between "short robes" and "long robes" arose (1,4). 1210 |
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Italy - Bruno da Longobucco, an Italian physician who wrote on surgery, complained about barbers performing phlebotomies and scarifications (1). 1254 |
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Europe - The height of the Black Plague, when many university trained professionals died (6). This increased the need for medical professionals. 1347 - 1351 |
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England - The Company of Barbers was granted its first Royal Charter by Edward IV, establishing its power to regulate the practice of surgery in London, to maintain professional standards, and to stamp out impostors and charlatans (1,7). 1462 |
|
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France - There are an estimated 300 barber-surgeons working in Paris, compared to just 29 employed there as of 1301 (1). 1634 |
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Europe - The word "hairdresser" is first used (2). The first famous hairdresser was Monsieur Champagne, who worked with all the wealthiest women in Paris (2). 17th Century |
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England - Surgeons officially part ways with barbers to form the Company of Surgeons, which became the Royal College of Surgeons in 1800 (8). 1745 |
Timeline of the Barber-surgeon Profession
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Europe - The first barber-surgeons are recognized. They work in monasteries selling a variety of medical services (1).
1000
Europe - The first barber-surgeons are recognized. They work in monasteries selling a variety of medical services (1).
1000
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Europe - Demand for haircuts increases after a papal decree requires all Roman Catholic clergymen remove their facial hair (2).
1092
Europe - Demand for haircuts increases after a papal decree requires all Roman Catholic clergymen remove their facial hair (2).
1092
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Italy - Pope Alexander the III (1159-1181) bans clergyman from providing surgeries in the Papal States (4,5).
1063
Italy - Pope Alexander the III (1159-1181) bans clergyman from providing surgeries in the Papal States (4,5).
1063
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Northern France - The College de St Cosme (Côme) opens in Paris. This is where a conflict between "short robes" and "long robes" arose (1,4).
1210
Northern France - The College de St Cosme (Côme) opens in Paris. This is where a conflict between "short robes" and "long robes" arose (1,4).
1210
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Italy - Bruno da Longobucco, an Italian physician who wrote on surgery, complained about barbers performing phlebotomies and scarifications (1).
1254
Italy - Bruno da Longobucco, an Italian physician who wrote on surgery, complained about barbers performing phlebotomies and scarifications (1).
1254
➤➤➤➤➤➤➤➤➤➤➤
Europe - The height of the Black Plague, when many university trained professionals died (6). This increased the need for medical professionals.
1347 - 1351
Europe - The height of the Black Plague, when many university trained professionals died (6). This increased the need for medical professionals.
1347 - 1351
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England - The Company of Barbers was granted its first Royal Charter by Edward IV, establishing its power to regulate the practice of surgery in London, to maintain professional standards, and to stamp out impostors and charlatans (1,7).
1462
England - The Company of Barbers was granted its first Royal Charter by Edward IV, establishing its power to regulate the practice of surgery in London, to maintain professional standards, and to stamp out impostors and charlatans (1,7).
1462
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Europe - One of the most notable Surgeons of the European Renaissance, Ambroise Paré (1510-1590), began his career as a barber-surgeon in 1536. He served four French monarchs: Henry II, Francis II, Charles IX, and Henry III (3).
1536
Europe - One of the most notable Surgeons of the European Renaissance, Ambroise Paré (1510-1590), began his career as a barber-surgeon in 1536. He served four French monarchs: Henry II, Francis II, Charles IX, and Henry III (3).
1536
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England - The Guild of Surgeons joined the Company of Barbers to form the United Barber-Surgeon Company. Thomas Vicary, surgeon to Henry VIII, urged the introduction of surgery regulations used in London (1).
1540
England - The Guild of Surgeons joined the Company of Barbers to form the United Barber-Surgeon Company. Thomas Vicary, surgeon to Henry VIII, urged the introduction of surgery regulations used in London (1).
1540
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France - There are an estimated 300 barber-surgeons working in Paris, compared to just 29 employed there as of 1301 (1).
1634
France - There are an estimated 300 barber-surgeons working in Paris, compared to just 29 employed there as of 1301 (1).
1634
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Europe - The word "hairdresser" is first used (2). The first famous hairdresser was Monsieur Champagne, who worked with all the wealthiest women in Paris (2).
17th Century
Europe - The word "hairdresser" is first used (2). The first famous hairdresser was Monsieur Champagne, who worked with all the wealthiest women in Paris (2).
17th Century
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England - Surgeons officially part ways with barbers to form the Company of Surgeons, which became the Royal College of Surgeons in 1800 (8).
1745
England - Surgeons officially part ways with barbers to form the Company of Surgeons, which became the Royal College of Surgeons in 1800 (8).
1745
The Barber-surgeon Historical Relationship Still Referenced in 2022
Recently California passed bill SB 803, which changes several aspects of barbering and cosmetology licenses for the state. You can still see the historical barber-surgeon relationship referenced at the beginning of the bill. Below is an excerpt from page one, where SB 803 appears to be removing that reference from the Barbering and Cosmetology Act along with the State Board's duty to report on it.
(2) The [Barbering and Cosmetology Act] requires the board to conduct certain reviews and report its findings and recommendations as prescribed by November 1, 2018. The act provides that it confers no authority to practice medicine or surgery.
This bill would delete that obsolete report requirement. The bill would prohibit the practice of medicine from being performed by, or offered by, a licensee under the act without being authorized and licensed to perform that act pursuant to a license obtained in accordance with some other provision of law.
This bill would delete that obsolete report requirement. The bill would prohibit the practice of medicine from being performed by, or offered by, a licensee under the act without being authorized and licensed to perform that act pursuant to a license obtained in accordance with some other provision of law.
Timeline Sources
(1) 'Encyclopedia of Medical History' (1985) Internet Archive. Available at: https://archive.org/details/encyclopediaofme1985mcgr/page/30/mode/2up (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(2) ‘Hairdresser’ (2011) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hairdresser (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(3) ‘Ambroise Paré’ (2020) Encyclopedia Britannica. Available at: https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ambroise-Pare (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(4) ‘Barber surgeon’ (2011) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barber_surgeon (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(5) Nix, E. (2018). ‘Why are barber poles red, white and blue?’, History Stories, 22 August. Available at: https://www.history.com/news/why-are-barber-poles-red-white-and-blue (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(6) ‘Black Death’ (2020) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Death (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(7) 'History of the Company' (2014) The Worshipful Company of Barbers. Available at: https://barberscompany.org/history-of-the-company/ (Accessed: 6 October 2020).
(8) ‘Royal College of Surgeons of England’ (2020) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Royal_College_of_Surgeons_of_England&action=history (Accessed: 7 October 2020).